per quanto riguarda l’uso della macchina da cucire la lezione sarà davvero breve, per due motivi: da un lato il progetto-memory non richiede chissà quali abilità; There are other aspects of your sewing machine ... you have to discover for themselves! I learned to sew by reading the instruction manual of the sewing machine, I suggest you do the same because there may be details that vary depending on the make and model ... I recommend you are diligent, it is important!
anyway here are the key points you need to know {click on photos to enlarge!}:
1. How is a sewing machine
- pawns and foot-leg raises: lowers the presser foot to hold the fabric tight on the needle plate (see below), there are different types depending on the job (for hinges, for buttons, embroidery ...) to us -at least for the moment only the foot-care standards. usually on the back of the sewing machine is a lever to lift and lower the leg. the pin must always be down when you sew! - needle needle plate and feed dog : be ', the needle can find little or no instructions (I hope ...) and what is it you know you (re ... I hope)! the needle plate is in fact is a steel plate with a hole inside which passes the needle as you sew, often on the plaque are engraved lines, then we will see what they do. the feed dog is the mechanism that moves the fabric under the presser foot and sew, consists of a series of prongs that slide by moving the fabric.
- coil : is located below the needle plate is used to wrap the thread that will form the bottom seam
- flyer: is a knob located the right of the sewing machine, allows you to raise to lower the needle.
- Point Selection: my sewing machine has a wheel that allows me to select the type of point, other models have the ability to manually set the width and length of the point. for me there are points straight (or longer) and the zig zag (more or less dense) all other matters-at least for now-for me are just decorative! ;-)
-astern every sewing machine has a button or a lever that pressed you to sew back, very useful for fixing the wire at the beginning and end of work!
- pedal be 'this should not be hard to spot, nor to use. it is just to take some 'steps ... just like the first few times you drive a car. but the pedal is only one here!
- flyer: is a knob located the right of the sewing machine, allows you to raise to lower the needle.
- Point Selection: my sewing machine has a wheel that allows me to select the type of point, other models have the ability to manually set the width and length of the point. for me there are points straight (or longer) and the zig zag (more or less dense) all other matters-at least for now-for me are just decorative! ;-)
-astern every sewing machine has a button or a lever that pressed you to sew back, very useful for fixing the wire at the beginning and end of work!
- pedal be 'this should not be hard to spot, nor to use. it is just to take some 'steps ... just like the first few times you drive a car. but the pedal is only one here!
2. prepare the sewing machine
learn to wind the wire on the bottom roll and place it into position. learn the procedure to fix the wire and thread the needle. try and try again, after a while 'is natural!
3. choose the point
in genere il punto zig zag si usa per le applicazioni o per rifinire i bordi del tessuto, perché non si sfilaccino, ma è anche molto decorativo e nulla vieta di usarlo quando più ci aggrada…
i punti dritti possono essere più o meno lunghi, solitamente si usa un punto tanto più lungo quanto più è resistente e pesante la stoffa (es. punto corto per una maglina, punto lungo per il jeans). se siete alle prime armi, in particolare quando dovete eseguire cuciture curve o seguire un certo disegno, vi consiglio un punto piuttosto corto: la macchina cuce a velocità ridotta e avete il tempo di direzionare meglio la stoffa. se invece siete fortunate and your computer has the appropriate mechanism for sewing at slow speed ... well, 'I envy you!
4. wire cloth and place
following the instructions of your sewing machine needle plate you emerge from the wire coil. have two ends of wire: one coming from the reel (which will form the top of the seam) and one coming from the coil (the bottom of the seam).
raise the presser foot, with the wheel lift the needle.
bring the two wires behind the car. Place the cloth, most of the fabric must remain on the left.
raise the presser foot, with the wheel lift the needle.
bring the two wires behind the car. Place the cloth, most of the fabric must remain on the left.
always keeping the wire down the back foot and needle. now you're ready to go!
5. freeing the seams
there are two ways to rid the seam at the beginning and end of work: a reverse or a small knot.
- make a few points before going ahead and work back to some point (just press the lever / button to the seam back!). do the same after work. then raise the presser foot and remove the work, cutting the wire with a pair of scissors or a cutter that is usually found on the back of the machine Sewing.
- if the effect of "reverse" no aesthetic pleasure you can use this other method: raise the presser foot, remove the machine work to cut the wires at about 15-20cm. take the work from the inside out and gently pull the wire to form a small loop with your fingers or a needle, take the loop and keep pulling until you have checked out the thread that was on the right. Now both threads are on the wrong side of work, annodateli as close as possible to the fabric, then cut the excess wire.
6. straight seams
the most important thing for sewing straight and finish the edges of the fabric, cut sides and straighten the ragged edge. if the edge is sharp and straight will be easier to follow and get a nice seam. We can also help with the guidelines that are usually engraved on the plaque in August
I often sign on the back of the fabric line that I follow with a pencil or chalk, is probably not very "orthodox", but it works!
no choice but to try and do some 'practice, take a cloth or a scrap of fabric and practice, always remembering the rule number 10 of the Decalogue aspiring seamstress!
7. dangerous curves
the seams are not always just straight! we see how to make a corner. sew to the point where you have to change direction. make sure the needle is inserted into the fabric (if not lower it with the wheel), turn up the pieces, turn the fabric so that they take the right "path" to lower the presser foot and continue sewing. Easy, right?
instead for sewing curves (circles, hearts ...) the only option is exercised, practice, practice! you have to take a little 'confidence with the sewing machine, a bit' of dexterity and coordination. you can begin to draw with a pencil on a rag and try to follow some curved line with the seam. if the first convincing evidence there was calm: this type of sewing you do not need to pack our memory, you have time to exercise!
as always if you need clarification I'm here!
for the next episode get yourself the material that I have described here and here. also equip yourself with cardboard (even recovery: the boxes of pasta, for example, are perfect!) ruler, scissors, pencil and paper ...
good creativity!
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